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And in doing this I experienced really for the first time the immense horizontality of the city of the future; what Sujic calls the 100 Mile City. Of course I have known this theoretically; but here was the horizontal experience. Ten miles of uninterrupted building none of it much more than three stories high; this really does challenge the vertically aspirational city. But my journey persuades me; this is the city of the future, (unless it is rather Singapore or Jakarta); but it takes me time to concede (so much do I espouse the European model of concentration and crowdedness that I am used to) that this is indeed "city". Until you realise that these modest structures amount to exactly the same components of the vertical city; they are just laid out in attenuated form. Sa if to refute any feelings of LA as essentially suburban, my bus pulls up (with a sigh) at a bus stop outside two adjacent one storey houses. Side by side they stand, with the following signs on them:


Clearly this was not the suburbs.

But I find downtown and, more to the point I find Broadway.

This was the centre of Los Angeles if it ever had a centre. And is lined with great deco palaces and tenements, daubed with graffiti to an alarming height. The whole of Broadway is a thrill, a latino Oxford Street (and I mean that with no bathos; for like Broadway Oxford Street is the Real Thing.) But some claim that Broadway, the old downtown is not to be incorporated within the new downtown; it is near it but has been sort of cauterised off from it. The street pulses with the musics of the latino world from a thousand loudspeakers; the Mexican, Mariachi; Colombian Salsa, Cumbia, Gaita, the Dominican Republic (Merengue); big ornate old cinemas showing Latino films, some put to other uses; one great old barn advertises EVANGELIZACION. I remember pausing in a big echoey Gallery packed with stalls, the sun filtering in though the iron pillars that supported it, listening to a sweet shuffly cumbia and feeling so good.


need these streets
city sublime
seismic city
chopper shot
perfect city
dark city
global flaneur
shanghai and seoul
city tourist
loathsome centres
krung thep
sex city
hong kong
nightmares dreams
new sublime
dickens in la

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